Općenito
U današnje vrijeme, mnoge škotske destilerije nude mogućnost obilaska. Točnije, 68 destilerija nudi redovne ture, dok se s 8 njih može dogovoriti posjet uz prethodnu najavu. Cijene obilaska kreću se od 20 funti pa naviše, a sve ovisi želite li uz obilazak i degustaciju, ili samo razgled.
Najviše posjetitelja privlače destilerije u blizini Edinburgha i Glasgowa, te one iz regije Speyside. Destilerije s otoka Islay i iz Campbeltowna, svakako uživaju poseban status među ljubiteljima viskija. Prema podacima SWA (Scotch Whisky Association) 2019. godine, prije pandemije COVID-19, Škotska je zabilježila 2.16 milijuna posjeta destilerijama, a turisti su potrošili čak 85 milijuna eura.
Prvo iskustvo obilaska destilerije ostaje urezano u sjećanje zahvaljujući uzbuđenju i novom iskustvu. Međutim, s vremenom mnogi ljubitelji viskija primijete sličnosti u obilascima. Istina, svaka destilerija ima svoju jedinstvenu priču, no proces destilacije vrlo je sličan, a vodiči često znaju manje o procesu destiliranja od fanova destilerije koji dolaze u posjet. Unatoč tome, mirisi tijekom procesa kuhanja, fermentacije i u skladištima s bačvama, pružaju nezaboravno iskustvo za sva osjetila.
Osobno smatramo da bi destilerije trebale ponuditi naprednije verzije obilazaka za posjetitelje koji su već više puta bili u posjeti. Možda dodati neke zanimljive detalje, no za takve ture potreban je vodič koji je jako dobro upoznat sa svim etapama procesa proizvodnje, ali i viskijem općenito.
Ako nas pitate koju destileriju preporučiti, reći ćemo - bilo koju! Destilerije poput Glengoyne, Deanston, Glenkichie, Clydeside i Auchentochen su u blizini Glasgowa i Edinburgha, te su uvijek dobra opcija. Vaš će doživljaj uvelike ovisiti o vodiču. Naša najbolja iskustva su bila kad smo na obilasku bili sami sa vodičem ili sa manjom grupom prijatelja, što omogućava opušteniju i manje formalnu atmosferu.
Deanston destilerija posebno nas je oduševila svojom opcijom "warehouse tasting", gdje se degustacija odvija u skladištu, uz same bačve, gdje možete izravno izvaditi viski iz bačve I natočit si ga u čašu. Preporučujemo da uvijek provjerite aktualnu ponudu na web stranicama destilerija i obavezno rezervirate unaprijed.
Da biste stekli bolju sliku obilaska destilerije, predstavit ću Vam našu avanturu u Old Pulteney destileriji iz travnja 2022., uz dodatak zanimljivih povijesnih činjenica o destileriji.
Kratka povijest Old Pulteney destilerije
Destilerija Pulteney (Pulteneytown) smještena je u Wicku, malom ribarskom gradiću na sjeveru Škotske. "Wick" je vikinška riječ za zaljev. Otvorio ju je James Henderson 1826. godine. U početku je bila prilično nepristupačna, pa se sav prijevoz odvijao pomorskim putem. Ječam je dopreman morem, a viski se izvozio na isti način. Zaposlenici destilerije često su bili ribari. Tijekom 19. i početkom 20. stoljeća, industrija ribolova haringe doživjela je procvat, a Wick je ubrzo postao najveća europska luka za ribolov haringe, privlačeći mnoge ribare i radnike u potrazi za poslom.
Hendersonova obitelj zadržala je vlasništvo gotovo stoljeće prije nego što su 1920. godine prodali destileriju Jas. Watsonu iz Dundeea. U ranim godinama 20. stoljeća, žene iz Wicka počele su igrati značajniju ulogu u društvu. To je u određenoj mjeri bilo povezano sa Representation of the People’s aktom iz 1918. godine, koji je ženama dao pravo glasa. Mnoge od tih novopridošlih biračica bile su iz ribarske zajednice Wicka i osjetile su izravni financijski udar zbog mnogih pubova koji su postojali oko lučkog područja (muževi bi se nerijetko vračali s ribarenja bez plaće jer bi svu plaću potrošili na alkohol). 29. svibnja 1922. gradsko vijeće Wicka odlučilo je učiniti grad "dry", bez dozvole za prodaju alkohola (što je trajalo 25 godina). Vjerojatno iz tog razloga Graham 1924. godine prodaje Old Pulteney John Dewar & Sonsu, koji je kasnije je pripojen u DCL. Destilerija je bila u proizvodnji do 1930. godine kada ju je zatvorila recesija na tržištu. 1947. godine, kad je porasla potražnja za viskijem poslije rata, novi vlasnik Robert 'Bertie' Cumming odlučio je ponovno otvoriti destileriju Pulteney. Proizvodnja je obnovljena 1951. godine.
Destilerija je renovirana i zatvorili su "malting floor". Vlasništvo destilerije mijenjalo se više puta dok je 1995. godine Inver House kupio Old Pulteney i ostao njen vlasnik do danas. 1997. godine, Pulteney je prvi put predstavio svoj core range.
Destilerija uzima vodu iz jezera Hempriggs Loch i koristi ječam bez dima. 90% destilata stavlja se u ex-burbon bačve koje sazrijevaju u skladištima pored destilerije.
Dolazak u Old Pulteney
Za razliku od mnogih škotskih destilerija koje su smještene u slikovitom okruženju, Old Pulteney nalazi se unutar samog gradića. Da nismo znali za destileriju, vjerojatno je ne bismo ni primijetili. Parkirali smo se odmah nasuprot ulaza i ušli u distillery shop. Uputili su nas u sobu za degustaciju, koja se nalazi odmah pored trgovine, i zamoljeni smo da pričekamo oko 15 minuta do početka ture. U sobi za degustaciju (gdje tura također završava) nalaze se stolovi, dvije hand fill bačve, velike povijesne slike Wicka na zidovima i jedan veliki centralni stol.
Naš vodič se pojavljuje i započinje priču. Slušamo malo o povijesti Old Pulteneyja, a zatim prelazimo do mlina gdje se objašnjava omjer korištene mješavine ječma. Ječam se melje u starom Porteus mlinu sa četiri valjka (destilerije obično koriste ili Porteus ili Robert Boby koji se više ne proizvodi od 70-ih). Zatim se miješa u mash tun-u koji može primiti pet tona ječma po miješanju, a svaki tjedan se izvodi 19 takvih miješanja. Ostatak od miješanja prodaje se kao stočna hrana lokalnim farmerima - što je praksa u većini destilerija.
Pulteney ima bakreni poklopac na mash tunu-u. Umjesto uobičajena tri miješanja, ima ih četiri. Voda iz posljednja dva procesa privremeno se pohranjuje i ponovno se koristi za sljedeću seriju tijekom prva dva procesa miješanja. Na taj način, ječam u Pulteneyju maksimalno iskorištava šećere i škrob.
Fermentacija se odvija u šest washbacks kapaciteta 23.000 litara. Fermentacija se odvija tako da kvasac ulazi u washbacks istodobno s ječmom, što znači da se brže raspoređuje i brže reagira s šećerima.
Destilacijski kotlovi (stills) Pulteneyja izgledaju jedinstveno s obzirom na njihovu masivnu kuglu koja je gotovo velika kao baza kotla, što je inspiriralo prepoznatljiv oblik boce koji danas vidimo. Postoje 2 kotla (1 wash still i 1 spirit still), koji stoje blizu jedan drugome. Vrh kotla za prvu destilaciju je ravan jer nije stao po visini (krov je bio prenizak), pa je menadžer destilerije odlučio odrezati vrh kotla. Kotlovi imaju velike refleksne zdjele, pa tijekom destilacije dolazi do puno kontakta s bakrom. Ovo rezultira blagim destilatom. Nakon prve destilacije, destilat ima alkoholni udio od 30-35% po volumenu.
Ispod kotlova nalazi se plinski grijač, a pored se nalazi spirit safe. Napuštajući prostoriju, dolazimo worm tubsa za hlađenje, koje danas još koristi tek desetak destilerija u Škotskoj. Worm tubs se hladi vodom iz rijeke.
Prema kraju ture dolazimo do prostorije za punjenje gdje destilat ide u bačve. Poklopci bačvi se označavaju, a zatim se prenose u skladište. Pulteney ima ukupno pet skladišta: dva regalna skladišta (racked warehouse) s velikim policama i tri niska skladišta (traditional dunnage warehouse). Pulteney je nekada imao malting floor gdje se sada nalazi centar za posjetitelje te mjesto za izradu bačvi gdje je sada jedno od dunnage warehouse-a.
Obilazak završava u sobi za degustaciju pored distillery shopa od kuda smo i krenuli. U sobi za degustaciju nalaze hand fill bačve, a ovaj put su imali u ponudi dvije takve bačve - 2006 ex-bourbon (90 funti) i 2007 ex-spanish oak (130 funti).
Mi smo izabrali smo turu s pet uzoraka viskija gdje smo dobili i čašu na poklon.
Sve u svemu, naš vodič je bio odličan, imao je sve bitne informacije, ali ono što nas je najviše oduševilo kod destilerije je njihov transparentan pristup bez uljepšavanja - sve je dostupno i sve se može vidjeti i fotografirati, bilo u prostoriji s kotlovima ili u skladištu (neke destilerije ne dozvoljavaju fotografiranje, a u skladištima imaju staklene pregrade kako posjetitelji ne bi mogli ući).
Jedva čekamo vratiti se!
Prepuni dojmova, prošetali smo simpatičnim gradićem Wick, a zatim se uputili dalje do Carrick dvorca, oko 15 minuta vožnje od destilerije.
Prekrasno iskustvo i svima bi preporučili posjet jednoj od najsjevernijih kopnenih destilerija u Škotskoj - Old Pulteney - Maritime Malt!
Ovaj članak nije sponzoriran i odražava naše mišljenje. Ukoliko je nešto krivo navedeno, molilm Vas da nas kontaktirate.
VISIT TO THE OLD PULTENEY DISTILLERY
OVERVIEW
Today, many Scottish distilleries offer tours. Specifically, 68 distilleries offer regular tours, while 8 allow visits by prior arrangement. Tour prices range from 20 pounds upwards, and it depends if you want a tasting included, or just a tour. The most popular distilleries are those near Edinburgh and Glasgow, and those in the Speyside region. Distilleries from the island of Islay and Campbeltown certainly have a special status among whisky enthusiasts. According to the SWA (Scotch Whisky Association) in 2019, before the COVID-19 pandemic, Scotland recorded 2.16 million distillery visits, with tourists spending a staggering 85 million pounds.
The first experience of a distillery tour remains memorable due to the excitement and new experience. However, over time many whisky enthusiasts notice similarities in the tours. True, each distillery has its unique story, but the distillation process is very similar, and guides often know less about distilling than the distillery fans visiting. Nevertheless, the aromas during the mashing, fermentation, and in the barrel warehouses provide an unforgettable sensory experience.
We personally believe that distilleries should offer advanced tour versions for visitors who have been there multiple times. Maybe add some interesting details, but such tours would require a guide who is very familiar with all production stages and whisky in general. If you ask us which distillery to recommend, we'd say - any! Distilleries like Glengoyne, Deanston, Glenkichie, Clydeside, and Auchentochen are near Glasgow and Edinburgh, always a good choice. Your experience will largely depend on the guide. Our best experiences have been when we were on a tour alone with the guide or with a small group of friends, which allows for a more relaxed and less formal atmosphere.
The Deanston distillery particularly impressed us with its "warehouse tasting" option, where the tasting takes place in the warehouse, next to the barrels, where you can directly extract whisky from the barrel and pour it into a glass. We recommend always checking the current offer on distillery websites and reserving in advance.
To give you a better picture of a distillery tour, we will present our adventure at the Old Pulteney distillery in April 2022, with the addition of interesting historical facts about the distillery.
BRIEF HISTORY OF THE OLD PULTENEY DISTILLERY
The Pulteney Distillery (Pulteneytown) is located in Wick, a small fishing town in northern Scotland. "Wick" is a Viking word for bay. It was opened by James Henderson in 1826. Initially, it was quite remote, so all transport took place by sea. Barley was shipped by sea, and whisky was exported in the same way. Distillery workers were often fishermen. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, the herring fishing industry flourished, and Wick soon became Europe's largest herring fishing port, attracting many fishermen and workers looking for work.
The Henderson family retained ownership for almost a century before selling the distillery to Jas. Watson of Dundee in 1920. In the early 20th century, women in Wick began to play a more significant role in society. This was partly related to the Representation of the People's Act of 1918, which gave women the right to vote. Many of these newly enfranchised women were from the fishing community of Wick and felt the direct financial impact of the many pubs that existed around the port area (husbands would often return from fishing without pay as they spent all their salary on alcohol). On May 29, 1922, Wick's city council decided to make the city "dry", without a permit to sell alcohol (which lasted 25 years). Probably for this reason, Graham sold Old Pulteney to John Dewar & Sons in 1924, which was later annexed to DCL. The distillery was in production until 1930 when it was closed by a market recession. In 1947, when the demand for whisky increased post-war, new owner Robert 'Bertie' Cumming decided to reopen the Pulteney distillery. Production resumed in 1951. The distillery was renovated, and the malting floor was closed. The distillery ownership changed hands several times until Inver House purchased Old Pulteney in 1995, remaining its owner to this day. In 1997, Pulteney first introduced its core range.
The distillery draws water from Hempriggs Loch and uses smokeless barley. 90% of the distillate is placed in ex-bourbon barrels that mature in warehouses next to the distillery.
ARRIVAL AT OLD PULTENEY
Unlike many Scottish distilleries set in picturesque surroundings, Old Pulteney is located right within the town itself. Had we not known about the distillery, we probably wouldn't have noticed it. We parked right opposite the entrance and entered the distillery shop. We were directed to the tasting room, which is right next to the shop, and were asked to wait about 15 minutes for the tour to begin. In the tasting room (where the tour also concludes), there are tables, two hand-fill casks, large historical photos of Wick on the walls, and a big central table.
Our guide appears and starts the story. We hear a bit about the history of Old Pulteney, and then move on to the mill where the ratio of the barley blend used is explained. The barley is ground in an old four-roller Porteus mill (distilleries usually use either Porteus or Robert Boby, which hasn't been produced since the 70s). It's then mixed in a mash tun that can take five tons of barley per batch, and each week sees 19 such batches. The leftover from the mashing is sold as animal feed to local farmers - a practice in most distilleries.
Pulteney has a copper lid on its mash tun. Instead of the usual three mashes, they have four. Water from the last two mashing processes is temporarily stored and reused for the next batch during the first two mashing processes. In this way, the barley at Pulteney maximally extracts sugars and starch.
Fermentation takes place in six washbacks with a capacity of 23,000 liters. The fermentation process is such that the yeast is introduced into the washbacks simultaneously with the barley, which means it disperses more rapidly and reacts more quickly with the sugars.
The distillation stills of Pulteney look unique due to their massive ball, which is almost as large as the base of the still, inspiring the distinctive bottle shape we see today. There are 2 stills, standing close to each other. The top of the first distillation still is flat because it didn't fit in height (the roof was too low), so the distillery manager decided to cut off the top of the still. The stills have large reflux bowls, leading to a lot of copper contact during distillation. This results in a mild distillate. After the first distillation, the distillate has an alcohol content of 30-35% by volume.
Below the stills is a gas heater, and next to it is the spirit safe. Leaving the room, we come to the worm tubs for cooling, which today are used by only about ten distilleries in Scotland. The worm tubs are cooled by water from the river.
Toward the end of the tour, we come to the filling room where the distillate goes into casks. The lids of the casks are labeled, and then they are transferred to the warehouse. Pulteney has a total of five warehouses: two racked warehouses with large shelves and three traditional dunnage warehouses. Pulteney once had a malting floor where the visitor center is now located and a cooperage where one of the dunnage warehouses is now.
The tour concludes in the tasting room next to the distillery shop from where we started. In the tasting room, there are hand fill casks, and this time they had two such casks on offer - 2006 ex-bourbon (£90) and 2007 ex-Spanish oak (£130).
If you're a fan of whisky and find yourself in northern Scotland, a visit to Old Pulteney is a must. The combination of rich history, unique stills, and fantastic whisky makes for an unforgettable experience.
This text has been written as a personal reflection and does not represent expert opinion. If you believe something is incorrect or wrongly stated, please feel free to contact us.